Lister Lh 150 Gearbox Manual Service
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Afternoon all, Can somebody help out there? I am stripping a Lister LH150 Hydraulic box. It has had a long hard life, and the time has come to do some work on it. I have managed to remove oil pump,clutch body etc. But removing the inner clutch cone assembly has got me beat at the moment.
Looking at the Lister parts list it looks to me as if the Yoke Bearing is sized to the Clutch Operating Yoke which in turn is sized to the cone assembly. Any suggestions on how to proceed? Also are parts still available i.e. Clutch lining, bearings and sleeve's. The reverse gear cluster, forward cone clutch, spring pack and yoke all come out together.
You release the yoke by undoing the brass plugs on the sides and pulling out the pivots. Screw a 5/16UNF bolt into the ends of the pivots to have something to pull against.
Next, remove the nut from the end of the gearbox shaft, pull off the drive pinion and the bearing race and then everything comes out of the front of the box Most parts are still available, not cheap though. I have just replaced a complete set of bearings in an LH150, that's over £300 Richard Edited March 27, 2013 by RLWP. The reverse gear cluster, forward cone clutch, spring pack and yoke all come out together. You release the yoke by undoing the brass plugs on the sides and pulling out the pivots. Screw a 5/16UNF bolt into the ends of the pivots to have something to pull against. Next, remove the nut from the end of the gearbox shaft, pull off the drive pinion and the bearing race and then everything comes out of the front of the box Most parts are still available Richard Richard, Thanks for your information.
Overalls on and in to the garage, I'll let you know how I get on. Hi, I am also stripping a lister lh150 gearbox.
It hadn't been run for years and had sat on shore. When I got it, it ran great. After a few hours driving I was really struggling to find reverse at all, so I checked my oil levels and realised I had lost a significant amount of oil, it appeared to be seeping out of the back plate of the forward piston, so I drained the remaining oil from the box and refilled it with SAE 80 - 90, (was mid journey home of my first narrow boat drive and I just wanted to get back so decided to continue on, regularly checking my oil) it ran okay for a number of hours (and got me home) but seemed that anything over 1/3 throttle appeared to slip instead of putting any drive through.
This slowly got worse and worse and now will hardly spin the prop at all. After reading a lot of yours and others posts, I decided that it must be clutch plates. But now I have it apart they don't appear to be particularly bad(not like the ones you have posted photos of) but they where covered in oil that appeared very thick and dirty, and the grooves in the metal plates where densely clogged. Im not sure if this clutch is meant to be covered in oil or not.?! The reverse band has around 1.5mm of pad on which is grooved a little, the forward cone has around 2mm which appears in good condition. Any advise at all would be great! Thanks in advance Anthony.
I am not sure what you are talking about. Are you sure its an LH150 box? The LH150 uses a cone clutch for ahead and a brake band for astern - no clutch plates there. The only 'metal' 'clutch' parts are the drum for astern and the female cone face in the drum for ahead. I have never seen grooves on either item.
I have seen grooves on the ahead male cone but that is friction material not metal. Originally I think the cone friction linings were riveted onto its support so if the lining had totally disintegrated that may leave holes, not grooves. Yes, oil covers everything inside the box, including the cone and brake band. Another point to watch is that you should check the length of the springs that push the ahead clutch into mesh. So you reckon the fore and aft gear linings are ok, just clogged with gunge. A good flush out with an 50/50 oil- paraffin mix and re- filling with fresh oil can work wonders with these boxes. I wouldn't be surprised if the ahead gear adjustment lock bolt at the hydraulic had lost all its free ply.
As the ahead clutch lining wears thinner the free play between the adjusting bolt head and the ahead clutch withdrawal lever reduces and if the free play reduces to nothing and not adjusted to restore the free play it will begin to start to hold the lined cone off the female drum and cause the slipping under forward load which will get worse rapidly as the more you allow it to slip naturally the faster the clutch lining will wear down. Once that free play is lost the ahead clutch lining is on borrowed time. The same thing can happen with a cars clutch if the driver 'rides' the clutch pedal whilst cruising along causing the free play in the withdrawal mechanism to be taken up and so starts to try and de-clutch the clutch by putting unwanted pressure directly on the pressure plate withdrawal fingers-toggles causing clutch slip and rapid wear. The oil leak at the gearboxes ahead gear hydraulic cylinder is probably its O ring faulty which is under the back of the triangular shaped rear of the cylinder where it fixes to the back of the gearbox with 3 nuts. Yes it was just the o ring that was damaged on the oil pump, and I have previously wondered about the clutch springs but I cannot find anywhere that specifies what size they should be? I also still had plenty of adjustment left between the piston and arm. I am also struggling to find what the max/min thicknesses are for both the forward cone and the reversing band clutch.
One thing that I have noticed that strikes me as a potential issue is that the cone slides easily down the splines until about 10mm away from being engaged, then hits a really tight spot and doesn't want to slide any further, I wonder if this is physically disabling it from engaging? I have visually checked the splines and they don't appear to be damaged in any way. (although I presume they must be warped somehow if this isn't normal?) is it normal for it to get tight there?
Thank you for all of the information so far! Hope to learn more! Wish me luck. Yeah its about 10mm where it starts sticking. I can make it slide up and engaged but its not a very smooth movement. There are no signs of rivets showing on the cone and it looks to be in good condition. My brake band is around that thickness but has a few grooves worn it(not mad maybe 10% coverage and not deep) as to me having it assembled correctly I am not 100% sure, it was rebuilt before I bought it (supposedly) and I still have it assembled in the order I took apart.
I cannot find a detailed lh 150 manual or an exploded parts view or anything, best I have got is the adjustment procedure in the sr3 manual. Any idea on the length my springs should be? Ill measure them in the morning and post back if I haven't heard anything cheers again. I will try using emery cloth on the splines carefully to see if I can get them sliding freely. I am pleased to say that after ten minutes of polishing the built up grime off with a piece of fine paper my clutch cone is now sliding freely! My clutch springs measure 45mm outer 45 mm centre and 46 mm inner, is this good? For the forwards piston, will a new o ring have to be high temp or will a normal one be ok?
I would like to upload a couple of pics to show you the condition of my clutch and band brake pads, but I cant for the life of me work out how to. Inbetween the clutch housing(?) and the brass retaining washer that's held together with a circlip I have 0.65mm of freeplay, im a little worried about it, not sure if it is normal.
Ive sprayed everything down with clutch cleaner so I wasn't sure if the oil may take this space up or if it will be fine once it is all assembled? Sorry to be a pain with so many questions but this is my first ever gearbox rebuild. Thanks for all the help! • my clutch springs measure 45mm outer 45 mm centre and 46 mm inner, is this good? I have just measure three from different hydraulic spring packs.
They are all in that range - yours are fine • for the forwards piston, will a new o ring have to be high temp or will a normal one be ok? You don't need a high temperature one • I would like to upload a couple of pics to show you the condition of my clutch and band brake pads, but I cant for the life of me work out how to. You will need to host the pictures somewhere else (Photobucket for instance) and link to them. There's a handy guide on the forum somewhere • inbetween the clutch housing(?) and the brass retaining washer that's held together with a circlip I have 0. Nokia 2690 Mobile Tv Free Download. 65mm of freeplay, im a little worried about it, not sure if it is normal.
That sounds OK • ive sprayed everything down with clutch cleaner so I wasn't sure if the oil may take this space up or if it will be fine once it is all assembled? The space isn't important.
In forward the clutch assembly is locked and that gap doesn't matter. In reverse, the drum is locked and the output shaft will turn, but won't move about because of the rear bearing. It will be fine When you reassemble the gearbox to the adapter housing, take very great care not to bend the oil pump spindle. Do the best you can to get the drive teeth engaged, and if you have to pull the gearbox onto the housing with the mounting nuts, something has gone wrong I'd also strongly advise that you get a new top cover gasket.
The oil galleries for the various pistons and valves are up there, leaks can cause problems Richard.
I’ve gone mad! I have bought a job lot of Lister LM100 and LH150 spares from used, dismantled boxes: I’m planning to put together an LM and an LH so I can offer a rebuilt gearbox off the shelf. I’m expecting this to be more expensive than having your own gearbox rebuilt as it will have new bearings, seals and clutches throughout. Henry Rifle Serial Number 6.
On a rebuild, I try to keep costs down by reusing serviceable bearings. Anyway, there are casings: There are differential housings and reduction gear housings: and an assortment of internal parts: Plenty of fun to be had here, and good news for owners of LH and LM gearboxes.